BIRDWATCHING MANU NATIONAL PARK 15 DAYS

Manu Biosphere Reserve has the highest biodiversity of any protected area in the world. The unparalleled beauty of this trip is in the landscape and variety of habitats ranging from orchid-draped cloud forest where Spectacled Bears and Cock-of-the-Rocks still exist unbothered, to pristine Amazon rainforest with 13 primate species and oxbow lakes frequented by Giant Otters. A trip to Manu is a trip to one of the world´s great wilderness areas where wildlife is still plentiful and over 1000 species of birds have been recorded. Add to this a breathtaking visit to Machu Picchu and you have a trip of a lifetime.

Depending on arrival time in Lima we either transfer to your hotel in Lima or connect to Cusco.

Today we will leave early, first driving and birding through scenic intermontane valleys . We will make selected stops for two smart endemics: Creamy-crested Spinetail and Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. In addition, we may find Cinereous Conebill, Golden-billed Saltator, Band-tailed Seedeater, Peruvian and Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches. Reaching a high mountain pass at Acjanacu, we will begin our journey into a vast intact wilderness area as we descend along the sinuous road that will take us to the Manu foothills. Along the extraordinary altitudinal transect that this remarkable road represents, new bird species continually appear whilst others drop out. Initially, the steep Andean slopes are clad in stunted forest, temperate shrubbery and wet paramo, and here we may well encounter such high-elevation species as Mountain Caracara, Shining Sunbeam, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Puna Thistletail, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Black-throated and Moustached Flower-piercers. A little lower down, where the magnificent cloudforests begin, we shall look out for White-throated and Variable Hawks soaring over the impressive slopes. With a little luck we will see a Swallow-tailed Nightjar this evening. We will stay for one night at the Wayqecha Biological Station. In upper Manu-cloudforest. L.D.

Today we€™ll target some tough birds like : Crimson-mantled Woodpecker ,Blue-banded Toucanet, the hummingbirds may include Gould’s Inca, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Tyrian Metaltail and Rufous-capped Thornbill. Sorting through mixed flocks, we hope to find Montane Woodcreeper, Marcapata Spinetail, Pearled Treerunner, Streaked Tuftedcheek, White-throated and White-banded Tyrannulets, Handsome and Inca Flycatchers, Barred Becard, Mountain Wren, Spectacled Redstart, Citrine and Pale-legged Warblers, Capped Conebill, Blue-and-black, Golden-collared, Blue-capped, Rust-and-yellow and Grass-green Tanagers, Hooded and Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, Yellow-whiskered Bush-Tanager, and Black-capped, Black-eared and Superciliaried Hemispinguses. Additional species we may find in this area include Andean Guan, Speckle-faced and Scaly-naped Parrots, Andean Pygmy-Owl, Azara’s Spinetail, Striped Treehunter, the endemic but hard to see Red-and-white Antpitta, Trilling Tapaculo, Barred and Band-tailed Fruiteaters, Red-crested Cotinga, Sierran Elaenia, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Olive and Pale-edged Flycatchers, Rufous-breasted and Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrants, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Blue-and-white and Pale-footed Swallows, White-collared Jay, Fulvous Wren, Glossy-black, Great and Chiguanco Thrushes, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager and Mountain Cacique. We will stay for two nights at Cock-of-the-rock Lodge. B:L:D.

Cock-of-the-rock Lodge, the Manu road the comfortable subtropical and lower temperate life zones with their spectacular avifauna: In a short distance is a lek of the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. The most spectacular of the birds of paradise. The displays of these splendid birds and their unearthly strangled shrieks will be emblazoned in our memories for years to come. Near the lodge we shall search for such specialities as Black-billed Treehunter, Slaty Gnateater, Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet, Versicoloured Barbet, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Olive-backed Woodcreeper, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Yellow-breasted Antwren, Streak-necked and Slaty-capped Flycatchers, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Grey-mantled Wren, Andean and White-eared Solitaires, Brown-capped Vireo, Tropical Parula, Russet-crowned and Three-striped Warblers, Slate-throated Redstart, Deep-blue and Bluish Flower-piercers, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Fawn-breasted, Orange-eared, Golden, Saffron-crowned, Yellow-throated and Slaty Tanagers, Yellow-throated and Common Bush-Tanagers, Dark-faced Brush-Finch, Golden-headed and Crested Quetzals and Hummingbirds such jewels as Violet-fronted Brilliant, Many-spotted Hummingbirds Speckled Hummingbird, Booted Rackettail and Long-tailed Sylph. and as the morning sun warms up the crisp air we shall scan the skies for these huge raptors: Solitary and Black-and-chestnut Eagles . Additional birds we may encounter here include Band-tailed Pigeon, Chestnut-collared Swift, Masked Trogon, Highland Motmot, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Yungas Manakin ,White-crowned Tapaculo, Cinnamon, Lemon-browed and Golden-crowned Flycatchers, Smoke-coloured Pewee, Green Jay, Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, Two-banded Warbler, Dusky-green Oropendola, Olivaceous Siskin and a dazzling array of tanagers.At nights we search for Rufescent Screech-Owl and Lyre-tailed Nightjar. Night in Cock-of-the-rock Lodge. B:L:D. NOTE: If Wayqecha and Cock-of-the-rock Logde are full we’ll stay at the nearby very comfortable Paradise Lodge

After a final morning in the birdy cloudforests we will descend further down the Manu road to the comfortable Amazonia Lodge, we shall scan the boulder-strewn rapids for Black Phoebe and White-capped Dipper. Most of the day will be spent birding the upper tropical forests of the foothills in search of such species as Military Macaw, Peruvian Piedtail, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Stripe-chested Antwren, Black Antbird, Ornate Flycatcher, the localized Red-billed Tyrannulet and the delightful Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher. With a modicum of luck we will find an Amazonian Umbrellabird perched in a roadside tree. Cleared areas may produce Smooth-billed Ani, the odd-looking Swallow-Tanager, Blue-black Grassquit, Black-and-white and Chestnut-bellied Seedeaters, and Lesser Seed-Finch. During good weather, raptors often soar overhead and we shall keep an eye out for White Hawk and Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle in particular. Later we will cross the Alto Madre de Dios river to Amazonia Lodge, located at an elevation of 1750 ft (500 m) .Our base for the next two nights stay. B:L:D.

Where the last low foothills of the Andes begin to flatten out into the vast Amazonian lowlands. The floodplain near the lodge is covered in second growth only a few decades old, while on the steep hillsides tall primary forest is found. While birding the varied habitats at the lodge we will see a very rich assortment of birds. Some species we will especially look for include Blue-headed Macaw, Rufous-crested Coquette, Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, Fine-barred Piculet, Bamboo Antshrike, Black-backed Tody–Flycatcher, and Golden-bellied Warbler. we should get good views of most if not all of them. Such localized species as Fiery-capped Manakin and Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant can often be found here as well, and sometimes even the elusive Black-capped Tinamou can be seen. False Vervain flowers in the lodge garden attract a multitude of dazzling hummingbirds, with possibilities including Violet-headed Hummingbird, Blue-tailed and Sapphire-spangled Emeralds, Golden-tailed Sapphire and Amethyst Woodstar. Although the hummingbird feeder is usually dominated by the large Grey-breasted Sabrewing, patience should reward us with the lovely Gould’s Jewelfront. Many birds can even be observed from the lodge porch, including the huge Boat-billed Flycatcher, the noisy Pale-legged Hornero and the skulking Plain-crowned Spinetail. Male Yellow-rumped Caciques engage in vocal imitations from their nesting trees while the bird table provides close-up views of several species of tanager. A small marsh provides shelter for secretive Blackish Rails, though we shall be fortunate if we get to see these vocal birds, while even harder to see is the small Uniform Crake, which prefers the undergrowth of dense swampy forest. While climbing up the primary forest-clad ridge that overlooks the lodge we may encounter the endemic Koepcke’s Hermit, the terrestrial Grey-throated Leaftosser in the dark understorey the Plain Antvireo, whilst lively mixed canopy flocks could hold Olivaceous and Ocellated Woodcreepers, Speckled Spinetail, Rufous-tailed Antwren, Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant, and Olive Tanager. We can try our luck with the nightbirds found in the vicinity of the lodge, such as Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, Black-banded Owl, Common Potoo and Pauraque. Other birds we may find in this wonderful area include Undulated Tinamou, Speckled Chachalaca, White-eyed Parakeet, White-collared Swift, Amazonian Violaceous Trogon, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Band-tailed Antbird, Amazonian Antpitta, Band-tailed Manakin, Yellow-crowned and White-lored Tyrannulets, Forest Elaenia, Long-tailed Tyrant, Dusky-capped, Short-crested, Social, Grey-capped and Streaked Flycatchers, Tropical Kingbird, White-winged Becard, Purplish Jay, House Wren, Black-billed Thrush, Solitary Cacique, Bananaquit, Spotted, Yellow-bellied, Blue-necked, Turquoise, Bay-headed, Palm and Blue-grey Tanagers, and Greyish and Buff-throated Saltators. If we are very fortunate we will find one of the more difficult and highly sought-after species of the area such as Buckley’s Forest-Falcon, Long-tailed Potoo or Rufous-webbed Brilliant. Night at Amazonia Lodge. B:L:D.

Early start to visit the small Parrot Clay Lick, 25 minutes downriver along the Madre de Dios river bank. We will see Chestnut-Fronted Macaw, Blue-Headed Macaw, Dusky-Headed Parakeet, White-Eyed Parakeet, Blue-Headed Parrot and Yellow-Crowned Parrot. Then we will board our motorized canoe that we will take us down the Madre de Dios river to Hummingbird Lodge. Today we shall continue our river journey, leaving behind the green ridges of the foothills as we delve deeper into the humid lowlands. Careful scanning of the river edge may reveal the awkward shape of a Great Black-Hawk, Roadside and Short-tailed Hawks, Black Caracara, Bat and Laughing Falcons, Drab Water-Tyrant. Eventually we will arrive at the comfortable Hummingbird Lodge for two nights stay. B.L.D.

Hummingbird Lodge is the best place to see Festive Coquette, Flammulated Pigmy-Tyrant, Large-headed Flatbill, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Sulphury Flycatcher, Green Manakin, Casqued and Olive Oropendolas. We will bird the bamboo forest for Bamboo Antshrike, Fasciated Antshrike, White-Eyed Antwren, Yellow-breasted Warbling-Antbird, Goeldi’s Antbird, Whithe-Throated Antbird, Band-tailed Antbird, Spot-backed Antbird, Plain throated Antwren, Rufous-headed Woodpecker, Manu Antbird (common here), Whitecheeked Tody-flycatcher, Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Large-headed and Dusky-tailed Flatbills, Peruvian Recurvebill, Dusky-cheeked and Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaners, Ihring’s and Ornate Antwren, White-lined Antbird, Striated Antbird and many more. Night at the Hummingbird Lodge. B.L.D.

Today we shall continue our river journey, as we delve deeper into the humid lowlands. Eventually we will reach the clay-laden waters of the meandering Manu River and head upstream. Here in the strict confines of Manu National Park, Black Skimmers, Sandcoloured Nighthawks and the bizarre Orinoco Goose nest on the sandbars, whilst Spectacled Caimans lazily sun themselves nearby. Careful scanning of the river edge may reveal the awkward shape of a Great Black-Hawk, the flash of a Sunbittern or the reddish brown of a Capybara, the world’s largest rodent. With just a little luck on our side we should also be able to spot the stately Razor-billed Curassow, a species driven to nearextinction in large parts of Amazonia but still reasonably common here. Raucous Blue-and yellow, Scarlet and Red-and-green Macaws float overhead, clothed in a riot of colours. Along the river’s edge we shall search for roosting Ladder-tailed Nightjars in the dense grassy vegetation. Other birds we may see along the way (or during river travel further into the tour) include Neotropic Cormorant, Great and Snowy Egrets, Cocoi, Little Blue and Capped Herons, Wood Stork, the enormous Jabiru, Roseate Spoonbill, Horned Screamer, Muscovy Duck, Black, Turkey, Greater Yellow-headed and King Vultures, Plumbeous Kite, the exceedingly graceful American Swallow-tailed Kite, Crane, Roadside and Short tailed Hawks, Black Caracara, Bat and Laughing Falcons, Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Pied Lapwing, Collared Plover, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Pale-vented Pigeon, Grey-rumped and Short-tailed Swifts, Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Chestnut-fronted and Redbellied Macaws, Cobalt-winged and Tui Parakeets, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Swallow-wing, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Drab Water-Tyrant, Little Ground-Tyrant, Brownchested and Grey-breasted Martins, White-winged, White-banded and Southern Roughwinged Swallows, Violaceous Jay, Red-capped Cardinal, Yellow-browed Sparrow, Giant Cowbird, and Crested and Russet-backed Oropendolas. Eventually we will arrive at the comfortable Matsiguenka Lodge for two nights stay. B.L.D.

We strart with a Strong-billed Woodcreeper announcing the new day with its loud song, whilst the clear whistles of Cinereous and Bartlett’s Tinamous emanate from the dark forest undergrowth. Located in the vast virgin rainforest of Manu National Park, the Matsiguenka Lodge gives access to several distinct habitats including the nearby Salvador oxbow lake. Here a small catamaran allows us to float gently by the lake edge and marvel at its sensational bird and animal life. This is also a known site for the near endemic Black-faced Cotinga, an enigmatic bird that escaped discovery until 1965 and has still only been observed at a few localities. Entering the primeval Amazonian forest is a strange and captivating experience. Lianas hang in loops and tangles from the canopy, through which the biggest trees emerge to stand in full sunlight. We shall rise early each morning as most forest inhabitants are at their peak of activity from around dawn to about midday. During the first hours of the day many shy understorey denizens proclaim their territorial rights with their characteristic songs, and by patiently tracking down these vocalizations we may be able to lay our eyes on such furtive birds as Blue-crowned and Broad-billed Motmots, Banded, Grey and Plumbeous Antbirds, Black-faced Antthrush, Ash-throated Gnateater, Ringed Antpipit, Whitebellied Tody-Tyrant, Rufous-tailed Flatbill, Golden-crowned and White-crested Spadebills, Dullcapped (or White-eyed) Attila, Southern Nightingale-Wren and Hauxwell’s Thrush. In the course of the morning mixed-species flocks start assembling, and often a quiet moment will suddenly be interrupted by the arrival of a nervous party of birds roving through the understorey, led by the noisy Bluish-slate Antshrike. Amongst confusing tangles of vegetation we shall experience the often frustrating challenge of identifying as many birds as possible before they all move on again. Regular flock members include Plain-brown, Wedge-billed, Spix’s and Buff-throated Woodcreepers, Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner, Plain and Slender-billed Xenopses, Plain-winged and Dusky-throated Antshrikes, Plain-throated, White-eyed, Ornate, White-flanked, Long-winged and Grey Antwrens, Black-faced Antbird and Tawny-crowned Greenlet. At mid-levels and in the subcanopy a different kind of mixed flock is formed around the striking White-winged Shrike-Tanager, which characteristically sits motionless on a perch regularly emitting fake alarm calls, waiting for a deceived flock member to drop its prey. We shall search through its companions to find Spot-winged Antshrike, Sclater’s and Pygmy Antwrens, Black-capped Becard and Whiteshouldered and Yellow-crested Tanagers. Yet another assembly may come along a little later, that of sun-loving high canopy birds, which could include Gilded and Lemon-throated Barbets, Lineated Woodcreeper, the easily overlooked Chestnut-shouldered Antwren, Wing-barred Piprites, Zimmer’s Flycatcher (split from Yellow-margined), Pink-throated Becard, Red-eyed Vireo, Duskycapped Greenlet, Purple and Green Honeycreepers, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Green-and-gold and Paradise Tanagers, and perhaps even the noisy Red-billed Pied-Tanager. Mammals too roam the forest and Manu National Park is probably the best place to see a large variety of New World primates. As many as thirteen species of monkey share the canopy and regularly seen species include the swift Common Squirrel Monkey, the curious Brown and White-fronted Capuchin Monkeys, the acrobatic Black Spider Monkey, the little Saddle-back Tamarin and the lethargic Red Howler. These forests are the most accessible in all of Amazonia for the incomparable Emperor Tamarin. Resting from forest birding, we shall float on sun-dappled Cocha Salvador. Clumsy Hoatzins clamber about in giant arum plants and Black-capped Donacobiuses perform their loud duets, whilst overhead Blue-headed, Yellow-crowned and Mealy Parrots squawk their way to or from their roosts. In addition, the lake edge holds Anhinga, Striated Heron, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Green Ibis, Slate-coloured and Black-collared Hawks, Limpkin, Sungrebe, Wattled Jacana, Little Cuckoo, Green Kingfisher, Long-billed Woodcreeper, Great and Lesser Kiskadees, and Silverbeaked and Masked Crimson Tanagers. We even have a very good chance of encountering a friendly family group of the endangered Giant Otter actively fishing in their aquatic environment. Penetrating further into the forest we may encounter numerous other surprises, such as the red and greens of a Black-tailed Trogon lighting up the dim forest interior, a pair of metallic-coloured Bluish-fronted Jacamars sallying out for dragonflies. We shall always be on the alert for those large birds that in other areas have succumbed to hunting pressure, but here in Manu still maintain healthy populations, such as Spix’s Guan, Blue-throated (or Common) Piping-Guan and Palewinged Trumpeter. The latter roam the forest floor in bands of six to twelve individuals and if we are fortunate enough to stumble upon these marvellous but shy creatures strutting along a forest trail it will be an unforgettable experience. Other birds we may encounter in the forest labyrinth include Great Tinamou, Ornate and Black Hawk-Eagles, Red-throated Caracara, Grey-fronted Dove, Ocellated Poorwill, White-necked Jacobin, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Collared and Blue-crowned Trogons, Black-fronted Nunbird, Red-stained and Red-necked Woodpeckers, Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, the amazing Screaming Piha with its deafening calls, the bamboo-loving Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, Greyish Mourner and Musician Wren. If we are very fortunate we will come across a column of army ants with its attendant bird followers, such as Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper, Black-spotted Bare-eye, and White-throated, Sooty and perhaps even Hairy-crested Antbirds. Night at Matsiguenka Lodge. B.L.D.

After some final birding in Manu National Park we will travel back down the Manu River to its junction with the Alto Madre de Dios River. Here the water changes from quiet and tea brown to clear and fast-flowing. After travelling down the Alto Madre de Dios we will come to Manu Birding Lodge, with a bird list over 600 species, situated just upriver from the Blanquillo Macaw Clay Lick. The rest of our time will be spent birding the extensive trail systems which have been designed to visit different forest types. There will be an optional visit to the large mammal clay lick here, which can attract Tapirs, Peccaries and maybe even a Jaguar, also attracts Guans, Currasows, Chachalacas as well as Rose-fronted and Rock Parakeets and Dusky-billed Parrotlet. Night birding may produce Long-tailed, Great and Common Potoos, Amazonian Pygmy Owl, Spectacled Owl, Ocellated Poorwill and Silky tailed Nightjar amongst others. our base for the next four nights. B.L.D.

We start early morning, 40 minutes downriver to the most spectalurar and the biggest Macaw Clay lick, this one featuring up to 100 Red-and-green Macaws and observe the spectacle of hundreds of Parrots and Parakeets very close from our blinds. Red-and-green Macaw is a highlight. Here we will see the beautiful Orange-cheeked Parrrot, Blue-headed Parrot as well as Mealy and Yellow-crowned Parrots. Smaller visitors include White-eyed, Cobalt-winged and Tui Parakeeks. This afeternoon we will bird the extensive trail systems which have been designed to visit different forest types. The area around this lodge has the most forest types of anywhere in the Manu area. Night at Manu Birding Lodge. B:L:D.

We will also visit Blanco Oxbow Lake. Picking up species we may missed. Where we will see lakeside birds including Hoatzin, Sungrebe, Agami Heron, Black-billed Seed-finch, Silvered and Band-tailed Antbirds, Amazonian Streaked Antwren, Rufous-sided Crake, Gray-breasted Crake, amongst others and we may be lucky and see one of the two Giant Otter families that live in the area.We will visit the large Mammal Clay Lick in the forest, apart from attracting Tapirs, Peccaries and maybe a Jaguar, also attracts Guans, Currasows, Chachalacas as well as Rose-fronted and Rock Parakeets and Dusky-billed Parrotlet. Night at Manu Birding Lodge. B:L:D

Early start to visit the canopy tower 38 m. From this lofty perch we shall be seeing birds in all directions, in addition canopy species, other possibilities here include, Rose-fronted Parakeet, White-necked Puffbird, White-browed Purpletuft, White-throated and Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, Plum-throated and Spangled Cotingas, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Black-tailed and Black-crowned Tityras, Black-faced, Blue and Yellow-bellied Dacnises, Golden-bellied Euphonia and Olive Oropendolas. Then we will be birding the extensive trail systems which have been designed to visit different forest types. The area around this lodge has the most forest types of anywhere in the Manu area, and thus the highest bio-diversity – which means the most species of birds. With the extensive Varzea, Tierra Firme and Mature Transitional Floodplain Forest, this means a mind-boggling variety of bird-life. We expect this lodge area to hold more species of birds than anywhere else in the world and the bird list is already 562. We will look for the Rufous-fronted Antthrush we have located on territory here. Some of the scarcer forest species we will be on the lookout for that we have seen here previously include : Bartlett’s Tinamou, Razor-billed Currasow, Pale-winged Trumpeter, Elusive Antpitta, Pavonine Quetzal, Striolated Puffbird, Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Ocellated Woodcreeper, Collared Puffbird, Ruddy Spinetail, Plain Softail, Striped Woodhaunter, Sclater’s Antwren, Banded Antbird, Ash-throated Gnateater, White-throated Antbird, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Black-faced Cotinga, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-bellied tody-tyrant, Royal Flycatcher, Musician Wren, and many more. Night birding may produce Long-tailed, Great and Common Potoos, Amazonian Pygmy Owl, Spectacled Owl, Ocellated Poorwill and Silky-tailed Nightjar amongst others. Optional another visit to the large mammal Clay lick in the forest, apart from attracting Tapirs, Peccaries and maybe a Jaguar, also attracts Guans, Currasows, Chachalacas as well as Rose-fronted and Rock Parakeets and Dusky-billed Parrotlet. Night at Manu Birding Lodge. B:L:D

Our journey down the Madre de Dios River. It will be a great chance to see riverside birds and raptors. As the journey continues we’ll see evidence of gold mining. Leaving our boat. At Boca Colorado, we’ll take a 4 hours bus ride, birding along the way to Puerto Maldonado where we’ll stay at our comfortable Hotel. B:L:D.

This morning we will bird near the airport and the road to Cusco which several species of widespread distribution have colonized in the wake of deforestation. We should pick up some new species in these few hours, including Double-collared Seedeater, Red-breasted Blackbird and possibly White-tailed Kite or Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture. Other birds we will look for include Southern Caracara, Gray-breasted Crake, Scaled Pigeon, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Black-faced Tanager and Grassland Sparrow. Later we will take a midday flight, via Cusco, to Lima where the tours ends this afternoon. Soon after we leave Puerto Maldonado, and as we head towards the Andes, a green Amazonian wilderness reaches out towards the distant horizon. It is a sight to lift the spirits of anyone depressed by the endless news about the progressive destruction of our planet, for here nature still survives almost untouched, as we have just seen up close for ourselves. Night in Lima. B: